WHAT IS CORNEOTHERAPY?
Corneotherapy is a remedial skin treatment methodology with its core principle being the repair and maintain the defense systems of the skin barrier. As the name suggests, Corneotherapy is closely related to corneobiology, i.e. the physiological, biological and biochemical processes of the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the epidermis.
Can we affect the stratum corneum?
It is now well known that the outer layer of corneocytes in the stratum corneum is a biologically active cellular tissue. Co-founder of Retin-A, American dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman and his partners have discovered that the stratum corneum and the lipid barrier that keeps it intact play a significant role in skin health. It can send many signals to the underlying living epidermis and influence the regenerative processes in the deeper layers of the skin. This understanding of healthy skin, along with appropriate treatments and local therapies, is a collection of treatments that Dr. Kligman called "corneotherapy."
The skin's protective barrier
Thanks to this knowledge, therapeutic treatments focused on corneotherapy result in the fact that an optimally functioning protective barrier, including a healthy innate immune system, can prevent or reduce the structural inflammation that is a precursor to many anomalous skin diseases such as EFA disorders, xerosis, itching and eczema. . These preventive treatments are primarily aimed at correcting and restoring the stratum corneum and barrier defense systems that have been damaged or weakened by disease or internal and external factors. Correct application of corneotherapeutic principles has been shown to restore homeostasis and improve the function of the entire skin. Protection against harmful substances and microorganisms that can cause these anomalous conditions is enhanced.
Corneotherapy: prevention, strengthening, maintenance and treatment
The principles of corneotherapy can also be used not only to correct the condition of the skin, but also to support the prevention of skin problems. This is of particular importance in preventing premature skin aging, which is an inherent result of the approach typical of corneotherapists. The basic principle of corneotherapy is to keep the epidermis intact at all times, and the therapeutic effect works from the outer layers of the epidermis to the inside. This integrity approach ensures that skin protection and the immune system are not unnecessarily stimulated. Corneotherapy is also an individualized approach to skin care and therapy, following a logical path that investigates and defines the causes of diseases before selecting the appropriate treatments and therapeutic applications in the order that provides the best effect. This contrasts with a more simplistic approach to treating symptoms without identifying the causes.
One of the main benefits of corneotherapy is that it is largely free from side effects compared to topical pharmaceutical treatments. Preventive corneotherapy practices can prolong exacerbation intervals and reduce or even avoid the use of conventional dermatological medications such as steroid or cortisone creams. To sum up, the most characteristic features of corneotherapy are two features that significantly distinguish it from conventional methods of care and treatment:
taking time to thoroughly investigate the causes of skin diseases and disorders,
maintaining the proper skin barrier environment, not just treating symptoms through repeated use of pharmacological products.
Therefore, nothing prevents the combination of corneotherapy with pharmacological treatment and gradual removal of the skin from the long-term treatment process in order to strengthen the physiological defense capabilities of the skin. The company that currently has its products certified (awarded by the IAC, International Association for Applied Corneotherapy) to be named in accordance with the principles of corneotherapy is Dermaviduals. If you would like to learn more about Dermaviduals product you may contact me directly.
ref .corneotherapy.org
What is the hydrolypIC barrier?
I have probably mentioned to you what the protective barrier is and how important it is. But i wanted to write about it so you can revisit in case you forgot.
The hydrolipic barrier consists of both superficial and deep skin fats as well as moisture-retaining components. Moisture is needed in the epidermis for the proper functioning of living cells. If the epidermis is properly moisturized, the production of young cells and the formation of new epidermis increases. Corneocytes (dead epidermis cells) more efficiently free up space for new cells from the inside of the epidermis towards the skin surface. But moisture and oil alone are not enough. The skin barrier is also referred to in the context of the bacterial layer present on the surface of the epidermis. Epidermal cell growth and division relies on well-regulated cellular communication processes. Keratinocytes and other cells in the skin produce the so-called cytokines responsible for controlling the transmission of information between cells. Cytokines are molecules that tell other cells to do something, to make something specific happen in the skin. The way cytokines communicate can have many consequences for the skin's barrier function. For example, cytokines influence the maturation of epidermal cells - keratinocytes, in part by modulating gene expression in these cells. One consequence of the effects on genes is the control of other cytokines, which contributes to the complex network of signaling molecules that influence the physiology of keratinocytes and thus the quality of the skin barrier. Thus, the dysregulated work of cytokines may contribute to the dysfunction of the epidermal barrier.
When can this be seen on the skin?
In many diseases, e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis or during incorrect transmission of information between cells due to other diseases, such as diabetes or hypothyroidism.
The lipids of epidermal cells and the continuous action of the bacterial flora on the skin surface under healthy conditions are the key guardians of the epidermal barrier.
The main lipid components in human sebum include: squalene, wax esters, triglycerides.
They are responsible for the antifungal and antibacterial properties of the skin. So if something disturbs the functioning of the natural lipid protection in the epidermis, bacteria and fungi can easily penetrate inside. Not only that, parasites can also live on our skin very easily.
When can we not be afraid that the skin will pass unwanted visitors? This is where antioxidants come to our aid. In addition to antioxidants, moisturizing cosmetics that quickly penetrate into the epidermis, which not only moisturize themselves, but also bind water in the epidermis, are also useful. Such moisturizing ingredients include: urea, hyaluronic acid lactic, or e.g. common glycerin. To seal the water barrier, i.e. to protect the moisture layers, I recommend using creams with oiling ingredients, i.e .: ceramides, fatty acids, triglycerides, vegetable and animal oils. You probably think that it's not for you, because you already have oily and shiny skin, so you avoid greasy substances. Completely unnecessary. Lipids can be applied by any person, with any type of skin. The key to success, however, is the type of oil you are applying. If the skin is extremely dry, dehydrated, reactive, oversensitive, then occlusion works best, a fat that will not let water from the epidermis pass through and prevent this water from evaporating. On the other hand, people with oily and clogging skin would certainly not survive even a day with such oily care. These people should choose creams with lipids similar in composition to those naturally present in the skin, and those that are not a heavy barrier. For example creams that mimic the ingredients in the skin like the DMS (DERMA MEMBRANE STRUCTURE) line from Dermaviduals.
IS WINTER MAKING YOUR SKIN CRINGE?!
Winter can be brutal to our skin, depending on where you live. Negative temperatures, freezing cold wind, dry heat, lack of humidity in the air, constant temperature changes from blasting heat in the car to shocking cold when you step outside. All of that can wreck havoc on our skin.
In Ayurveda, Vata, the principle of movement is the ruling dosha for late fall and winter seasons. These months are marked by the same qualities that characterize vata: coldness, dryness, lightness, and movement. Luckily, through the understanding of Ayurvedic principles, we can take steps to pacify Vata and keep our skin balanced and glowing throughout the winter months.
In my practice i like to combine the Ayurvedic principles with my knowledge of Corneotherapy. So first and foremost, we have to make sure our skin care products are suitable for this season. Oil-reducing and exfoliating cleansers that we tend to use in warmer months won’t do any good for us now.
Choose a gentle milky or oil based cleansers, that won’t strip your lipid barrier and expose your skin to harsh environmental factors. Remember, impaired lipid barrier won’t protect your skin from cold, wind, pollution, microorganisms and water evaporation. Two amazing products that i recommend for that is Dermaviduals Cleansing Milk with DMS and Living Libations Seabuckthorn Oil Cleanser. They will remove all the make up, dirt, oils without stripping your barrier and will leave your skin feeling clean, hydrated and plump
Don’t over exfoliate. During this time i recommend exfoliating only once a week, with gentle exfoliants. Avoid using harsh, abrasive scrubs or peels. Again, it’s all about that lipid barrier. If your skin is feeling dehydrated and flaky, common mistake is to try to scrub it off, causing even more dehydration. I recommend gentle, enzyme or jojoba based exfoliant. It will gently slough off the flaky skin and decongest your pores but without stripping that barrier. I recommend Dermaviduals Peeling Cream with jojoba beads or my Customized Dermaviduals Enzyme Mask (available only upon consultation)
Don’t skip the TONER. This is a step in a skin care routine, that is often misunderstood. Toners are very beneficial for any skin condition. Skin that is congested, or starving for hydration, vitamins and nutrients. Toners are amazing thirst quenchers for dehydrated skin. Avoid alcohol based toners. Look for ingredients like cucumber extract and aloe. Dermaviduals Face Tonic with cucumber extract is super soothing and hydrating as well as Dermaviduals Lotion N. It’s like a one-stop shop bursting forth with restorative lipids. I absolutely love flower essences- hydrosols with rose, helichrysum, calendula, chamomile, geranium, sandalwood or melissa. TIP: immediately after getting out of the shower, spray the toner on damp skin and gently press it in. Right after that, before it dries out apply your serum. That will drive in all the goodies in to the deeper layers. Your skin will love you!
Serums contain a potent concentration of active ingredients to pack a punch and target different skin concerns. Serums are applied before your moisturizer to allow ingredients to absorb into skin. A hydrating serum is a perfect way to give some moisturizing and anti-aging benefits to protect against dry winter air. Look for products containing hyaluronic acid, that attracts and holds on to moisture in skin cells leaving your skin more hydrated and plump. Other ingredients i like to add are D-panthenol, Vitamin E, Boswellia, Vitamin C. What i love about Dermaviduals line is that any serum or cream can be customized with ingredients that your skin needs.
Choose a rich bio-compatible moisturizer to feed your skin. The skin barrier forms a line of defense for our bodies; the first three lines of skin barrier defense easily affected by dry skin conditions are the acid mantle, corneocytes (the outermost layer of our skin), and the multilamellar lipid structure. Without these three lines of skin barrier defense, the inner world of the epidermis and dermis is open to the extremes of the outer environments that contain allergens and pathogens. The creation of the skin barrier is dependent on a number of factors; components that are critical to skin barrier functions include; Free Fatty Acids, Ceramides and Cholesterol. These are part of the multilamellar lipid structure of the stratum corneum. Without these components, skin remains compromised and the vicious circle continues that can trigger the innate immune system. Dermaviduals creams contain patented technology, DMS (Dermal Membrane Structure) which mimics the composition and structure of the stratum corneum. DMS ensures the maintenance of the natural skin barrier; it effectively supports the prevention of premature ageing and above all, it is focused on maintaining skin health. DMS assists in strengthening the structure and function of the cell membranes and the bilayers of the skin and is effectively able to promote healthy, stronger and more refined skin. Which is what are skin needs at all times but especially during winter. Any Dermaviduals DMS Creams can be customized with extracts and vitamins.
BESIDES THE RIGHT SKIN CARE PRODUCTS THERE ARE FEW OTHER THINGS WORTH TAKING IN TO CONSIDERATION:
GET A HUMIDIFIER
A cool air humidifier increases the moisture level in the air, helping skin’s barrier stay hydrated.
DON’T TURN UP THE HEAT TO HIGH
this will avoid the extra dryness in the air. And let your body regulate its temperature.
AVOID HOT SHOWERS
i know how tempting it is to take a hot, steamy shower but that often damages keratin cells, which are the cells that make up the outer layer of our skin. They exist to keep the moisture inside your skin, but exposure to heat can often damage the epidermis, and worsen the condition of your skin. Hot water strips oils from the skin faster than warm water.
DIET
add more healthy fats to your diet like avocados, walnuts, sardines, olive oil, olives, ghee. Avoid iced drinks and opt for warm water and hot teas. Add warming spices like cinnamon, cloves, ginger.
BODY
add warm oil body massage, it will nourish your skin and prevent from dehydration.
Winter won’t last forever, even though it seems like it!
Stay Warm My Friends!
Paulina I.
HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR SKIN DURING COLDER MONTHS
Fall is in full swing in Illinois and its getting pretty cold!! This is the time when its necessary to change your skincare routine and take some extra steps, to make sure your skin stays healthy and beautiful during fall and winter months. Did you know that the wind, rain & cold temperatures cam break down the outer layers of the skin that maintain moisture level and protective barrier? And the constant changes from cold air to warm air can damage the skin’s top layer resulting in dry, dehydrated, cracked, & discolored looking skin with a dull complexion?
We all face these skin concerns starting in the Fall Season through the Winter Season. Learn how to take care of your skin during the Seasonal weather changes... manage & prevent skin damage this time before you have to do any damage control. Having a compromised skin barrier is NO fun.. not only can it be painful, but it actually can allow harmful bacteria into your system that was meant to be kept out by your skin’s protective barrier.
HERE ARE FALL SKINCARE TIPS THAT YOU CAN IMPLEMENT RIGHT AWAY
Up your moisturiser
Drink plenty of water and warm herbal teas
Switch your cleanser to one that is more creamy or milky, and doesn’t contain harsh stripping ingredients
Avoid products with emulsifiers that can pull out fats out of the tissue
Add liposome barrier repairing serum
Hyaluronic acid can be a great primer underneath your makeup
Don’t forget to exfoliate. Gentle enzyme treatment may save your skin
SPF is not only for summer months. Its crucial for Fall and Winter to still apply SPF 30
Avoid long, hot showers.
Start dry brushing to help stimulate lymphatic drainage
Eat more essential fats like Omega-3 and less Omega-6 fats that are more inflammatory
Get moving and sweating to help detoxify your body
Schedule your regular enzyme treatments with LED Light Therapy
STAY WARM! SPRING WILL BE BACK BEFORE WE KNOW IT! (hopefully) - Paulina I.